I often get asked about how to spend the perfect day in Amsterdam. It’s such an open-ended question and depends on whether you’ve been before, the time of year and who you are with but it got me thinking, what would my perfect Amsterdam day look like? After all I’ve written posts like 48 Hours With Kids or First Time Amsterdam but whilst many of the suggestions would still be high on my own list, a perfect Amsterdam day of my own choosing would more likely look a little like this…
Ok, let’s start with the time of year. Whilst I do have a passion for cycling past some of the more obscure (ie: quieter) bulb fields in high tulip season – late April – I don’t find it the best time in Amsterdam itself. I’d actually pick a glorious day in May. A time of year when ‘wisteria hysteria’ is at its peak and doorways are carpeted with lilac petals that blow gently into the canals.
I’d wake up early (I’ve got a lot to pack in) in a magical grachtengordel/canal ring hotel bedroom. I’m still dreaming of our incredible stay at The Canal House Hotel, but if its fully booked The Pultizer, or The Dylan would hit the spot.
But there’s no time to hang around here for breakfast so I’d be up and out for an early morning private canal cruise with Pure Boats. Small boats can go where the large tourboats can’t and the canals are so quiet in the morning its absolutely the best time to enjoy the peace and beauty of the city with its postcard-worthy views of iconic canal houses. If I’m really lucky I will have timed it so that I slip past the Westertoren just as the bells are ringing. Perhaps I’ll have a small snack on board but I’ll hold off eating anything more substantial because next I’m off for brunch.
From the dock I’d jump on my bike (if I didn’t have my own with me I’d borrow one from the hotel) and cycle over for the mid-morning meal of dreams at Dignita. I’ve rhapsodised about this stunning spot on my blog many times so read the full post for more but rather than stopping for breakfast and lunch, a mid morning brunch will be perfect, allowing room for further foodie treats between now and dinner.
After a leisurely meal (I’ll struggle to decide what to order but more than likely it will be the courgette fritter with minted yoghurt, cashew nut dukkah grilled halloumi, poached egg, lime and avocado!) I’ll stroll across the Hoftuin gardens and pop into the Portrait Gallery of the 17th Century in the H’ART Museum. It’s one of my most treasured Amsterdam secrets and I always find it incredibly moving. Afterwards, I’ll stop briefly at the Holocaust Memorial of Names and leave a stone in memory of Marc’s family or one of the thousands of other Dutch citizens who lost their lives in the Holocaust.
Then I’ll get back on my bike and cycle over the Amstel, across the Magere/Skinny bridge towards the Utrechtstraat, a lovely road of independent shops. I might stop off at the wonderful cheese shop or the butcher, Slagerij De Leeuw for foodie treats, or perhaps Patisserie Kuyt, one of the finest patisseries in Amsterdam. Maybe I’ll be in the mood for a touch of clothes shopping in which case I’ll drop into Sissy Boy which I never seem able to leave without a purchase.
If I have time I might even cycle up the road and cross over the top of the Amstel to the Staalstraat for the classic Amsterdam shot from the bridge over the Groenburgwal. Its in a slightly more touristy area which is frustrating but the view down the canal to the church is worth it and I might even pop into the completely fabulous (if eye-wateringly expensive) chocolate shop Puccini Bomboni whilst I’m there.
After that its straight back down the Utrechtstraat and if I’ve worked up even the smallest appetite I’d stop on the bridge over the Prinsengracht for a ‘broodje haring‘ – a herring with pickles and onions in a soft white roll from the herring stand. If that’s too much I’d somehow find room for a coffee, giving me an excuse for a quick break on the terrace at Cafe Marcella. Not only does it have the best view of boats lazily heading along the Prinsengracht canal but I happen to know there is a tiny love-seat for two with side by side chairs under the red and white stripy awning on the canal edge. Marcella is a spot that somehow escapes being excessively touristy whilst at the same time being the canal-side cafe that every Instagrammer dreams of finding.
But the day isn’t only about eating and drinking and I need to mix it up with views and culture as well, so I’m back in the saddle. On my way I’d stop where the Reguliersgracht meets the Herengracht – a spot that allows you to see 7 bridges crossing over the Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht canals. Whilst its gorgeous in the day time it’s also a particularly magnificent spot at night.
Still, I haven’t got time to linger so on I’d head to the Rijksmuseum. It’s the most visited museum in The Netherlands for a reason and cycling through it with violinists busking under the arches gives me thrills every time (even if i’m frantically ringing my bell to get tourists to step out of the cycle path along its length)
Inside the museum I head straight to my favourite rooms and pieces of art. For me the Vermeers are a must visit and after that I’ll detour past the extraordinary dolls houses that provided inspiration for Jessie Burton’s The Miniaturist and up to the balcony overlooking the History of Art library.
After my dose of culture its time for some shopping and I’d head back across the canals towards the Nine Little Streets. On the way I might stop off at the Hoxton Hotel for a souvenir by way of a snap in their retro photo booth.
The Negen Straatjes or Nine Little Streets are jam packed with boutiques and there’s always a new store to discover but some of my favourites have stood the test of time, so I’d park my bike outside Storytiles and browse there for a while before criss-crossing the canals and being tempted into the numerous other hotspots.
There’s food around here too and in the unlikely event I was peckish I’d give the crazy TikTokers standing in hour-long queues by Fabel Friet and Chun a wide berth and would instead pop into somewhere like Pompadour for one of their legendary cakes or rich valrhona hot chocolates. This gorgeous tea room and choclatier has been around for decades and its a real family favourite.
If however, I’m after something old rather than something new, I’d window shop in the Spiegelstraat browsing the historic Delft porcelain and antique tiles. Those in the know don’t actually buy here as the stores are priced for wealthy tourists. Rather, after seeking inspiration, the trick is to pop over to the Antiekcentrum on Lijnbaansgracht where I’d spend far too long browsing the little stalls for hidden gems and would inevitably come away with a stunning 17th Century tile at a fraction of the price charged at the fancier shops in the antique quarter.
By now it would be mid afternoon. The perfect time to head into the Jordaan. The streets here are amongst the most beautiful in the city and I’d dream about which canal house I’d buy after winning the lottery.
Getting lost around here is part of the fun but I’d definitely mooch up the Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat with its incredible view of the Westertoren at one end before strolling along the canals and crossing back over the Prinsengraacht to pop into some lovely little boutiques like LikeStationary.
Eventually I’d make my way to the Noordermarkt. If I get there before 4.00 on a Saturday I’d be in time for the organic farmers market. I might treat myself to a bunch of wild flowers before joining the inevitable queue for a table at Winkel 43 where I’d settle down for the best apple pie in the world. I’m not the only person who knows this so it will be busy but worth the wait and as this is my perfect day I’d hope to snag one of the two tiny tables right in front of the doorway.
After a rest back at the hotel it’s time for dinner. I’d definitely have considered an evening at the incomparable and unique De Kas however, being in the heart of town would probably tempt me to have booked De Belhamel which is a dreamy spot with fabulous food and a gorgeous atmosphere. Whilst I particularly love the canal-side terrace it would be no hardship at all to sit in the stunning art deco interior instead.
Finally I’d end my perfect day with a cycle along the canals. Seeing the city at night with the bridges lit up fills my heart with joy no matter how many times I see it.
And so to bed. I wouldn’t have had time for The Pijp with its lovely corners of foodie goodness, I would have had to have given Oud West a miss and so would have forgone a fabulous cruffin from Amsterdam’s hippest bakery Fort Negen, I’d have missed out on South and North too – no cycling through the Vondelpark and around Oud Zuid with its upmarket eats and shops; no ferry across to Noord for hipster hotspots in vast warehouse buildings. No Westerpark, no Artis Summer nights, no Cafe Amsterdam, no riverside dining at our favourite Indonesian restaurant Ron Gastrobar in Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, no Loetje, no Begijnhof, no Harlemmerstraat… The more I think about it, the more I realise the number of highlights I’ve had to skip.
You know what. There’s always tomorrow…