There are loads of canal-side cafes with terraces and regardless of how good the coffee is (or isn’t) the view typically more than makes up for it. But I’ve sat in many of these in my time (usually rubbing up against noisy tourists) and never quite felt any of them, bar a couple, are worth remarking on.
The exceptions have been Cafe t’Smalle because it used to have the most incredible teeny tiny terrace with a couple of wobbly tables hanging right over the canal, and Cafe van Zuylen because its right on top of a wide bridge over the Singel canal with boats literally passing beneath you . The trouble is that the floating terrace at t’Smalle has now been removed due to council regulations and the food at van Zuylen is a bit… meh.
But Cafe Marcella is a total gem and I’m almost reluctant to share it because its less touristy than most and one of my little secrets.
The reason this spot tends to be a touch quieter is its just a little further along the canal than most tourists tend to wander – and all the better for it. Around in some form or other since the late 1800’s its almost a ‘neighbourhood cafe – in town’ and next to an open square – the Amselveld – so if you’re travelling with littles its a fantastic place for them to let off steam in the playground or football court and if you’re not, it even hosts a local flower market on Mondays from 10.00-2.00 (forget the dreadful ‘floating’ flower market nearby, this is the real deal); an occasional antiques market in Summer and a boules court if you’re up for a quick game. If you get really lucky you might even arrive on the day of the free open-air Summer classical music festival.
But the real joy is that it sits on one of the most beautiful spots on the Prinsengracht canal – right by a bridge and just before it reaches the Amstel river, so you get all the best of the boat traffic skimming past.
And its such a picturesque location that you often see boat passengers taking a picture of the cafe whilst cafe patrons are taking pictures of the very same boats.
Marcella is an iconic old ‘brown cafe’ that has been renovated with enormous sympathy and without losing any of its original charm. Even the mirrors were restored by a local craftsman who created an aged patina to match its heritage. The huge red and white stripy awnings make it picture-postcard-perfect and the little bistro tables pulled up on the terrace or by the window are usually buzzing with locals from breakfast to dinner. My top tip is the single gorgeous little ‘love-seat’ on the canal with side by side chairs and the best view in the house – this is the sunny side of the canal at lunchtime and the perfect spot for dreamy views, but there’s no shame in heading inside either with fresh flowers on the tables and a truly ‘gezelig’ vibe.
Food-wise they offer a good mix of Dutch nibbles and nicer treats. Breakfast is simple but delicious and lunch has a small but tasty selection of sourdough sandwiches. There’s local cheese from Fromagerie Kef; sardines on toast (served in a tin for an Insta-perfect photo-op); Amsterdam’s ubiquitous kroketjes, kaastengels and bitterballen…and of course chips with mayonnaise.
Location-wise you are right by the fabulous Utrechtstraat with its gorgeous boutiques, a perfect place for some window (or real life shopping) away from the madness of the 9 Little Streets. And if you need convincing we’re talking Carhartt, Aesop, Rain Couture and Sissy Boy alongside some foodie gems like upmarket butcher and deli Slagerij De Leeuw, Zuivelhoeve cheese shop and patisserie of dreams Kuyt.
But Cafe Marcella might just be my number one tip in the area. They don’t take reservations, so hurry along and bag your seat.
